Showing posts with label Amman. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Amman. Show all posts

Way out Wadi Ramm (Wadi Rum)

Wadi Ramm or Wadi Rum as it is more commonly known,  is a long valley cut into sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan about km from Amman (see my post about that amazing city).  It is one of the longest inhabited places on the planet with people living there since prehistory (at least 4500BC). The Nabateans who built Petra (see my Report on that amazing place) lived in Wadi Ramm.


T. E. Lawrence known as Lawrence of Arabia based his operations here during the period of the Arab Revolt from the Turkish Empire at the end of World War One. The 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia film was filmed there, a fact the locals are very proud of. In the 1980s one of the rock formations in Wadi Rum was named "The Seven Pillars of Wisdom" after Lawrence's book though there is no direct connection between the two.


I took a tourist bus from Petra to Wadi Rum. It was very cheap.
First stop upon arrival  the Wadi Rum Visitor's Centre. There the bus was swarmed by local tour guides looking for clients. 
I had booked my tour in advance online which I think on reflection was a mistake. I could have got a place on a tour when I arrived for cheaper.
The canny tourists bargained down the guides at the Visitor Centre where as I, like most Westerners had assumed the web price was the actual price. The others on my tour paid a quarter of what I paid! Learning for next time. On the other hand, I was happy with my price. In addition, the money was going to a local family. And if you are not a fan of bargaining, then just shrug your shoulders, grit your teeth and pay!


My two day trip included several stops at key points around Wadi Ramm, a dinner under the stars and a sleep at a campfire with a Bedouin family (well the males of the family)
After the Vistors Centre is the small village of Wadi Rum. It has several concrete houses and tents and lots of camels (see right) . There is a boys' school  and a girls' school. I found a few shops selling water. (interestingly my guide included lunch and water into my tour and made the others pay for their own!). The village is also headquarters of the famous Desert Patrol founded by the British and handed over to the Jordanians.


A few minutes walk from the village lies the remains of Allat Temple originally built by the 'Ad tribe. and rebuilt by the Nabataeans (who built Petra) in the first century B.C. 


From the temple, I walked a small part of the way up the hillside of Jebel Rum  (the second highest mountain in Jordan) to "Lawrence Spring" (also known as 'Ain-Shallaleh'). The village seems to still use this water as drinking water. It tasted very pure. 


As I came close to the source of the water, I overheard some women talking. About to round the corner, I noticed over the ridge (I am tall) that they were chatting with their burqas sitting on the ground next to them. I quickly and quietly retraced my steps, then started back up again very noisily. As I came back up to the ridge, I paused on the other side to "take in the view" , dropping my water bottle onto the ground. A few moments later, the women passed me fully dressed with a quiet but polite "salaam". I am sorry that I interrupted their day but I hope I preserved their modesty. 
The Bedouin people are very conservative and tourists need to take this into account. If you are an unmarried couple travelling together, the correct answer when asked "are you married", is "yes". One couple found they could not share a bed for answering that question wrongly, even though they had lived together in Europe for eight years. 


Likewise, I was stunned (and the locals horrified) by what some tourists wear. Despite the climate, the Bedouin (men and women) cover up. Having young women trip past in high heels and tiny shorts with low cut tops will get an urgent request to "cover up" or the silent handing over of a blanket or a hissing through teeth. 
Public displays of affection by men and women got a polite "we don't do that here". 


After lunch in the village, we were away, crammed into a single four wheel drive without seat belts. Our driver who was no more than 18 told us cheerfully he had had three car accidents as he zoomed off bouncing through the sands, rocks and tracks. Thankfully we didn't have a fourth!


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The sights were astoundingly beautiful. At times we were alone on the vast plains sitting in complete silence. At other times, another four wheel drive or jeep would join us. We encountered a family camped in the desert and passed herds of goats and camels being driven by young boys.  We saw rocks and oases and sand dunes.
We stopped at several tents and were offerred endless cups of sweetened black tea - very refreshing in the heat. 
There were tables of soap,  perfumes and jewellry for sale at almost every stop (bargaining expected).


Dinner that night was a delicious stew cooked over an open fire accompanied by a seemingly endless supply of pita breads.
A magical end to a magical day came with the setting of the sun in that amazing place, followed by the rising of a stunning moon amidst a star encrusted sky. Sleep came easy followed by an early morning (the Bedouin seem to rise early).

The area is not totally isolated. Cell phone coverage was very good it was amusing to watch young kids on camel back texting. The young Bedouin guys all had cassettes of Arabic music that at times, they would play at full volume.
Leaving Wadi Rum was tough. I could have stayed longer in this timeless place. 
I travelled with Seven Pillars tours run by Audeh Krayem. He was very nice and helpful. You will end up on a  tour run by one of his myriad of nephews. Just make sure you bargain first! Oh and he owes me 20 dinars which we never worked out he could get back to me.  If you claim it back from him, let me know! And say "Salaam" to him for me.

Another Jordan related post is my Trip Report on Royal Jordanian Airlines





Amazing Amman

Amman, the capital of Jordan is somewhere I almost never hear about. I was curious to find out what the city was like. I loved it.


Home to almost 3 million people, the city straddles a series of hills. Originally it was built on seven hills - now 19.
Amman has had an existence for almost 12 000 years. 


The city is expecting to double in size in the next 15 years straining its natural resources such as water




Its transit system is very frustratingly under developed. There are buses running throughout the city but information is hard to access and it is hard as a visitor to get around using them. 
A group of volunteers are trying to develop an ordered bus map for the city.
A new Rapid Bus system is being planned as is a three line metro is planned.  I hope they get built.
Taxis are good and fairly cheatp. Driving is crazy!






Despite some tensions caused by pro and anti King actions, I felt very safe in Amman.People were very friendly and welcoming. I only got ripped off once.


Food and drink were delicious and fresh. The Falafel was the freshest and most delicious I have ever tasted. I have blogged earlier about buying one of my favourite Guava drinks (see picture below).


Palestinian style Pastry filled with cheese and dipped in a sweet sauce at an Amman Cafe delicious
Delicious guava drink

Fresh fruit juice stand in Old Amman
















Other posts about Jordan include: Petra, Wadi Rum (Ramm) and flying with Royal Jordanian.

The tale of the Convenience Store

I am going to share a series of my adventures on this mideast trip.
Its been warm in Amman Jordan today. I have a favourite drink that I have been buying all over the city in the little stores that are ubiquitous here. It is bottled guava juice and it typically costs .4 of a Jordanian Dinar (55 of my cents).

I stopped at the little store nearest to the hotel (160 metres away to be exact), grabbed a bottle of Guava juice from the fridge and greeted the shop keeper.

He said "3 diners" (4 dollars) holding up three fingers.
I responded in Arabic: taleta dinar? La! (3 dinars? No!)
His smile faltered a little.
"No I said 1.3 dinars"
I stared into his eyes as I pressed a 1 dinar note into his hand and said:.  "Really 1.3?"

He grabbed the 1 dinar note and rustled for change and bundled me out of the store with .6 of a dinar in change meaning I paid my normal price. I wonder how many tourists fall for the first price? Thats commerce I guess!
I need to say this has been a very rare event here in Jordan. I am fascinated that it happened so close to my hotel!

Trip Report: Royal Jordanian

25th March, 2011: Bangkok- Amman-Beirut
Royal Jordanian are the Flag Carrier for the Kingdom of Jordan, a country between Israel and Saudi Arabia.  Founded by the Jordanian king in 1963, it is now a privatized company. Royal Jordanian is the first (and only) Arab airline to join a major airline alliance being part of One World. I have now flown 8 of the 12 airlines in One World (although one of them, Mexicana Airlines  has suspended its operations and I wonder how long One World can keep saying they are a One World member).  Finnair, JAL and S7 remain for me to fly.

Buying a Ticket
The Royal Jordanian website (www.rj.com) is reasonably straight forward. Getting human help for an e-ticket was more interesting. There is an Australian sales office in Sydney but they referred me to a number in Jordan, who fixed up the ticket and then sent me back to the Sydney sales office! Both the Amman and Sydney offices were very friendly. I found the Sydney office a little chaotic throughout. 

Check-in: 8/10
I love airlines with online check in but found Royal Jordanian's a little more complex than I think it needs to be. Seat selection  was easy-ish and I got my coveted emergency exit seat. Then I thought I had lost the seat because of the confusing way, RJ displayed the seat selection so I re-chose the seat, to find that I still had it. Royal Jordanian has a very good system of emailing you confirmations of regarding seats, though. 

Boarding pass collection at Bangkok airport was easy.  I was invited to use the Thai Airways Silk Lounge. I had used this last year when I had flown with Thai. What seems strange to me that Royal Jordanian a member of One World uses a Star Alliance airline's lounge and not the Qantas/Britsh Airways lounge. Wonder what that is about? Cost? The fact they are both connected to Royalty?

Boarding: 10/10
 I boarded late so I missed seeing if the boarding process was  smooth or chaotic! I am not sure whether the announcement in the Thai lounge was at the end of the boarding process or if it was a very rapid efficient process.

The welcome from plane entrance to my seat by all of the on-board crew was very warm. It was done in English and or Arabic depending on the guesses over the passenger's language. The crew was a diverse mix with all the males being Jordanian and all but one of the females not being Jordanian. There were two Thai flight attendants, one from Ecuador and one from somewhere in Eastern Europe. The crew were all very friendly, very attentive and very welcoming and worked well. They were definitely proud of their airline but I did not get an impression of them being an overly cohesive crew today.


On Board: 7/10
I was traveling on an Airbus A330, a 300 seat twin engined plane. I am not a huge Airbus 330 fan, The cabin looked great: clean and airy. The colour scheme is very nice. Blanket and a pillow were provided at every place it seemed. Economy aisles are quite narrow.

On reaching my coveted exit aisle seat, I found it occupied. The occupant laughed and shrugged and offered me the bulkhead seats across the aisle. I took it figuring the leg room was almost as much as the seat I had reserved. Having already been travelling for 14 hours, I was not really ready for a discussion!  The leg room difference was enough that next flight, I will demand my seat.

They have a combined Business First section which I think leans toward the business end. Looked very comfortable and spacious with lie-flat seats.

Immediately, after takeoff, cabin crew brought round refreshing towelettes (yes, yes, yes). Amenity kits which consisted of the head sets came next. No little tooth paste and brushes were provided here.


Safety:  6/10
Safety demo good and clear with crew checking belts etc very well -with one major exception. In my row at the other end was an "interesting passenger".  He moved himself from his assigned seat to an empty bulkhead seat. He carried out shouted conversations to his friends all over the plane.  He refused to put his seat belt on for take off and landing. He refused to switch his mobile off and was texting as the plane came into land in Amman. He ordered the stewardesses around in a way that I thought was rude. Interestingly, the female attendants seemed quite unassertive with him. They did make him put his luggage out of the passage way into the luggage compartment (“but I need it close” he said). The flight attendants pretended they could not see he was not wearing his set belt and I watched them gaze at him texting and look away. If there are genuine safety issues here then, this needs to be dealt with.

My problem "friend" decided soon after dinner, that he would sleep on the floor of the bulkhead. A male Jordanian steward spent some time remonstrating with him to take his seat and he finally moved. A hour he returned to the floor and another guy curled up on the floor at the emergency exit and they stayed there for most of the flight. Qantas would have a fit!! The ride was very smooth for the whole flight which is of course, always luck! I wonder what they would have done with the floor sleepers if it had been rough?



Takeoff




We were delayed out of Bangkok because of "traffic" and the captain clearly advised us over the PA system about this delay- twice. Finally, we pushed back -over 40 minutes late.

Our nose wheel left the ground and we seemed to move down the runway for a long time with the plane's nose in the air and rear wheels on the runway before lifting off into the Bangkok post midnight sky.

Meals: 8/10
There was  no written menu provided for the trip. 
Dinner was promptly and efficiently served with 3 main courses offered:
  1. beef and rice
  2. chicken and vegetables
  3. shrimp (prawns) and rice
I chose the beef dish which was delicious but the staff did no mention to me that it was spicy hot. This did not bother me but for some fliers, it may be a shock! Also on the meal tray were a bread roll, excellent fresh salad, crackers, a camberbert spread, water and a chocolate dessert (which I did not eat).


After such a nice dinner, breakfast the next morning,  was a little disappointing but perfect adequate. The roll was a little stale and the croissant was cold. I assumed they would have heated it. I was also surprised at how western,  the breakfast was. No Fetta or Olives, for example. The cheese spread and jam were excellent and the fruit was very fresh and very refreshing. Fascinatingly, the provision of Australian Berri Orange juice.


Royal Jordanian had water available in the galley but no food/snacks through the flight.   They did give me a nice cup of assorted nuts  without me asking for them) as I attempted to watch the Narnia Dawn Treader movie. They made it clear as they gave me the snack, that I was very welcome to order any drinks at any time. I did not observe them passing through the cabin offering water through the night (something Qantas do well on long haul flights).

On my short connecting flight from Amman to Beirut, I was stunned to be served a very delicious sandwich and drink. There were no choices with the drinks and no coffee served but I was impressed (as always) with the hospitality.


Entertainment: 8/10
The reason for not appreciating the Narnia movie (mentioned above) was nothing to with the brilliant Royal Jordanian entertainment system. I just hated this movie adaption of my favourite Narnia book).  The system itself works very well. The interface is excellent and works smoothly with good menus.

I thought selection was limited. Not enough for a nine hour flight. Only one 30 minute Arab music video, for example?Likewise, only  3.5 hours of comedy in total (including 4 eprisodes of the offce and one of Molly and Max- iw atched them all). I tend not to like watching movies on planes. Here is where I catch up on TV!

The headphones provided were okay.



Arrival: 6/10
Every passenger was given a survey form and envelope to send back to Royal Jordanian. The survey asked about aspects of Royal Jordanian service. I documented my concerns re the safety over My Seatbelt man. I was interested they asked no questions about their food.

Landing was pretty well right on time at 516am (scheduled 515am). Not bad after a 40 minute delay. It was one of the smoothest landings I have ever had in my life.  

We were warmly farewelled from the plane by the crew. That part of the arrival would have given RJ 10/10. The next part of the experience let them down.

On arrival in Amman, I attempted to switch to the earlier flight (6am) to Beirut which I had been told might be possible by the Royal Jordanian booking office in Sydney. "Flight departed sir". I was told. "I see it still on the screens". "No sir". 
As I walked away from the counter, I heard them calling the flight!   I popped into the Royal Jordanian Crown lounge for my five hour wait for my connecting flight to Beirut. It is the biggest lounge in the whole of the Middle East.

Lounge Staff: “sorry sir , you are too early . You can only use the lounge 3 hours before your flight”.

He then explained there was a transit bus that would take me too a neaby transit hotel for a rest. I followed his directions and ended up unable to find the counter he was referring me to. I asked someone else who pointed me in the opposite direction and alas still no transit counter was there either! So I sat in an airport cafe using the wifi from the Crown Lounge. I will do an Amman airport report soon! I found the 3 hour rule interesting -anyone else encountered this with a lounge?

Overall Assessment: 76% (53/70)
For me, Royal Jordanian is way better than any American Carrier but not quite as good as Cathay, Singapore, Qantas or Air New Zealand and not near Emirates levels. I found them about the same or a little better than British Airways which would put them in my Top Ten airlines- so far. I have three more flights with them!  The difference being that BA seem to be declining and Royal Jordanian give an impression of improving. Their major selling points are their warm hospitality,  new aircaft and membership of One World (Frequent flyer points/status credits, Lounge access and World wide connections).
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